So You Want to Buy a Pop-Up?

After many years of owning and learning about pop up campers, I thought it was

time to enlighten the less experienced about the ups and downs of pop-up camper

ownership. They are a great way to get into camping, easy to tow and store. I love the

360° view when all the curtains and windows are open. However, there are a lot of

things you should know before taking the plunge.

We bought our 1994 Dutchmen 1002XS brand new. I have kept it up over these

past 27 years with many repairs and modifications. If there was something needing to

be fixed, upgraded or modified my friends at Pop Up Explorer [.com] would help. There

#1- The skills you may need

The first thing I want to address is the skills you may need if you want to own a

pop-up camper, especially an older model. I’ve always said you need to be part

plumber, part electrician, part carpenter and part mechanic. There are very few

replacement parts available for older pop ups since most of the companies are no

longer in business. You’ll also find that most camper repair shops won’t work on pop

ups anymore, and at the rates they charge now you’d be better off buying a new

camper. This is discouraging news I know, but best to be aware before buying and

facing a huge repair with no available parts or anyone to work on it.

If you’re brave enough to tackle a rebuild project, I suggest having a place you’ll

specifications for tow ratings specifically for your vehicle, and the camper. My lawn

mower can pull my camper, but if you’re going 60 MPH stopping is more important.

Don’t forget to add the weight of passengers, gear and other stuff you take with to the

overall weight figure. Also the camper tires and axle have a max weight rating.

Exceeding those ratings can cause premature tire wear or blowouts.

#3- Checking Out a Used Pop Up

If you are looking at a used pop up the first thing to check for will be soft spots on

the roof. Those usually mean wood rot, the death of many pop ups from lack of

maintenance. Before the camper is opened check the roof and side seams. If you see

involved to fix. To identify a Goshen system, look under the camper. If you see a long

rectangular box in the center of the frame with the cables coming out both ends that is

most likely a Goshen system. A few pop ups were made with electric lift systems. From

past readings there seems to be numerous issues with that type of system. I can’t offer

any advice in that direction, but be aware. Also make sure the camper closes up easily

after checking everything out. Folding in the canvas requires some finesse.

Inside check the ceiling, floor and cabinets for water leaks. Wrinkles in the ceiling

means moisture has infiltrated somewhere. Don’t believe if the seller says it doesn’t leak

if you see that, water can seep through the tiniest hole. Soft spots on the floor are again

signs of wood rot. Cabinets that have peeling or bubbled surfaces mean there has been

should also be shown the outside ports for water, drain(s) and electric. If the camper is

equipped with a battery make sure it’s in good shape.

You also want to check the tires. The best way to tell their age is by the date

code on the sidewall, if they are more then 4-5 years old they will need replaced. Note

the tread wear too, if either tire has uneven wear (bald on one edge) that could indicate

a bent axle or spring. Neglected tires may also mean neglected bearings.

So if all these things pass your test, and the layout of the camper suits your

needs and price range it looks like you’re buying a pop up!

The last thing before you hand over any money is make sure the seller has a

clear title. If there is a lien on the title make the seller take you to the creditor where you

can pay them to obtain the title. One piece of advice is always take cash with when

looking to buy. Offer a few hundred under the asking price making sure you note it’s “in

New pop ups do have way more to offer as far as amenities. From showers to

microwaves to heated mattresses, options like those can allow you to have the comforts

of home in your camper. There are models with a slide out that offer more interior

space. And as previously mentioned some pop ups have electric lift systems.

Of course, all the additional amenities you add is just like buying a new car,

everything costs a bit more. This is where you have to consider options. Things like a

furnace or heated mattresses won’t be needed if you live in the south and only camp in

warm weather. And if you only plan to camp once or twice a season a more basic model

might suit your needs better.

After you buy your pop up, here’s more things to know:

#4- Towing

Towing is going to be your first hurdle. By now hopefully you’ve made sure your

TV can safely tow and stop your camper. In my years of towing there have been several

times an emergency stop was needed. Good brakes are important! Remember it takes

longer to stop with that weight behind your vehicle pushing you. Heavier pop ups are

equipped with brakes and will require a 7 pin connector and a brake controller. Keeping

a wider distance between you and the traffic ahead is best. Also maintain a slower

One of the most important things about setting up your pop-up is making sure it’s

level. Not being level can affect the door not closing, the refrigerator not working, and

more. To level a pop-up you’ll need some wood blocks or a leveler set (Lynx Blocks) or

a BAL leveler and a carpenter’s level. Eyeballing it isn’t good enough, sorry.

The first thing is level the camper side to side by placing the wood blocks or

the ground. Use blocks of wood if needed to reach the ground. Never use too much

force on the stabilizers or use them to level as that can bend the frame.

Once I leveled our pop-up in a flat driveway using a carpenter’s level, I added the

stick on bubble levels to one side and the front. That way I no longer needed to carry

the carpenter’s level. At a glance it’s easy to see how level it is.

I’ve always said the best place to store a pop up is in your own garage. If you’re

covers made for campers tend to retain some moisture under them. Another thing with

covers and tarps is they tend to rip and shred in windy conditions.

critter damage. Every fingerprint can leave a trace of food smell, which is the thing that

attracts them. We use the Dollar Store lemon scented disinfectant wipes to clean

everywhere after every camp. Even with mice running around our garage day & night

Another tip on keeping your pop up free of rodents is sealing any holes where

wires or drains go through the floor. To find holes wait until dark, turn off the inside lights

and place a light under the camper. Look inside cabinets and under seats, any place

you see light shining through is a place a mouse could enter. I used silicone to seal up

There are numerous myths to deter mice. Irish Spring soap, dryer sheets and

peppermint oil on cotton balls to name a few. I have seen pictures where the mice eat

the soap and make beds out of dryer sheets. Oils seem to deter them until the scent

fades, which isn’t much longer than soap or dryer sheets. Mothballs are another mouse

deterrent that seemed to have worked for me in the past. Our pop-up was stored for six

years under a carport unused and unopened due to the roof leak. I kept a box of

mothballs in a cabinet behind the camper, no mice.

items needed to be prepared for camping in your pop up.

Water hose (drinking safe) and water pressure regulator

Wood blocks, leveler blocks or a BAL leveler

Tire Chocks

30 AMP to 15 AMP conversion plug (possibly)

Container to hold gray water and a short hose or pipe connector for drain

Tire iron to fit your lug nuts

A jack of some kind (I use a small hydraulic type)

Suggested items:

Basic set of tools (hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.)

Extension cord(s) 30 AMP and utility grade

String lights or flashlights

For hauling the other necessities you need to take with, here’s a few things we

do to make it easier;

cardboard on the bottom of one so small items don’t fall through.

Clothes- we use duffel bags for all clean clothes. Dirty clothes go into a lined

laundry bag. Damp/wet clothes are hung on the back bunk supports to dry.

Tools- I use a 5-gallon bucket to hold tools and parts. We do have a front

storage bin and that holds most of the pop-up poles, hoses, cords, etc.

Links

www.Popupexplorer.com

area with alcohol or acetone before applying the new caulk. I said our roof leaked the

year after the factory rebuilt it. My friends at Pop Up Explorer suggested Eternabond

Tape. I sealed the roof edges in 2007 with Eternabond and it is still leak free! The best

part is no scraping caulk off every couple years just to replace it. Also avoid using a

The Coleman ABS roof is a whole different ball game. This roof is a one piece

shell of ABS plastic over a foam core. These roofs tend to crack as the ABS ages due to

exposure to the elements. Once the first crack shows up the ABS will begin to

delaminate and eventually peel off the foam core. Once the foam core is saturated with

water there is usually no saving the roof. Some have temporarily fixed their ABS roof by

coating it with a rubber paint or having it Rhino-Lined, however delamination will

continue if moisture is trapped underneath any coating. Some recommend drilling a

and the floor tends to rot out under it. As much as a cable repair is not a costly fix, if you

have to take your camper half apart to do that repair the costs can add up.

Tires and Bearings- Camper tires vary in size and design. The best practice is

replacing the tires after 4-5 years regardless of how they look or the miles driven. Air

pressure should be maintained at the recommended levels, if it says 80psi then yes

that’s where they should be filled to. I buy new tires every 4 years, sooner if there is a

long trip coming up.

Bearings are recommended to be greased every couple of years. I’m bad but I

tend to wait until changing tires since access to the bearings requires removing them

anyway. Some folks like the bearing buddies that allow you to add grease without

removing the whole tire and wheel. My issue with those is it’s too easy to pump too

much grease in there and blow out the rear seal.